Time for Replacement
The Rubber Manufacturers Association recommends that tyres on vehicles of more than 10,000 pounds
(4.54 metric tonnes) gross weight be replaced when less than 1/8 inch of tread depth remains (not including tread-wear indicators). On vehicles
weighing less than this gross weight, front tires should be replaced when worn to tread-wear indicators, or when 1/16 of an inch or less of tread remains. At least one major tire company recommends that tires be replaced if they are more than
seven years old, regardless of the amount of tread remaining.
A tyre's age can be determined by a series of letters and numbers molded on the sidewall. The series begins with "DOT". On tires made prior to the year 2000, the last digit on the right represents the last digit of the year of production, and the 1990's decade is indicated by a triangle to the right of the last
digit-i.e., the numeral 9 followed by a triangle would indicate 1999. For 2000 and beyond, the triangle will not appear and four digits will appear on the right, the last two of which will indicate year of
manufacture-i.e., 00 means 2000. Although it is tempting to continue using tires that have good tread depth, despite age nearing 10 years, replacement is good insurance against failure that could result in an accident.
Should all the tires be the same load level? Should we
just make the two inside tires the stronger load level? - Tyres have
load levels usually indicated by a letter, (D,E,F,G etc), and the higher
the letter, the higher the load capacity.
Higher-load-rating tires will help prevent blowouts as long as they're
properly inflated (they normally require more pressure). Before you can
decide where to put the different tires, you need to weigh each corner of
the coach on a truck scale and see if it's evenly distributed, overweight,
etc.
If the tires are the exact same diameter, they can be used dual with a
lower-load-rated tire. If not, the larger tire will carry more weight, and
you might be better off with them on the front.
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Tip Top Tips
Old-fashioned know-how and ordinary household products can do wonders in an RV.
1. Refrigerator and stove problems fixed by a vacuum cleaner? Yes. Run the vacuum over the stove burners for hard-to-get pieces of food and burnt crumbs. For the refrigerator, run the vacuum hose out the window and reach behind the refrigerator to the pilot and controls, sucking up all the dirt and lint.
2. Even if you don't own a cat, using cat litter is a terrific way to absorb unwanted odors left over from frying fish or liver, or the remnants of that unwelcome guest who smoked.
3. Good ol' white vinegar and a soft cloth perform miracles on lime deposits on kitchen counters.
4. Stainless-steel sinks get dull and unattractive over time; try a little rubbing alcohol or baking soda to perk them up.
5. Scratched and marred woodwork comes to life once again with a mixture of one part instant coffee and two parts water, rubbed into the damaged areas with a cotton ball.
6. Everyone knows about baking soda absorbing unwanted odors in the refrigerator, but if you don't have any onboard, try a couple pieces of charcoal in the fridge. Works just as well.
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Cleaning & Care
Cleaning Products to Avoid
Harsh cleaners
Household window cleaner
Powdered cleansers
Flammable liquids
Drain cleaners
Use Natural and Mild Cleaners
If you use store–bought cleaners, buy RV–specific cleaners. One of the benefits of commercial RV cleaners is that many of them include UV filters to provide protection against sun damage.
If you'd prefer natural solutions, get a couple of empty spray bottles and mix your own solutions. Make sure to label the bottles so you remember the contents. Here are a few natural cleaning methods:
Glass and mirror cleaner — In a 2–litre spray bottle, add 1/3 cup of white vinegar and 1/4 cup of rubbing alcohol. Fill with distilled water.
Kitchen cleaner – Fill a spray bottle nearly full with distilled water and add a squirt of mild liquid dish soap.
Bathroom cleaner — Use a solution of white vinegar, baking soda and warm water.
Ceiling and wall water stains — Make a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide and dab a small amount on the stain.
Carpet or upholstery grease stains — Sprinkle with baking soda, cornstarch or talcum powder. Leave on at least 8 hours, then vacuum.
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How to drain
your RV water system after a trip
When you return from a trip and you won't
be using the RV for awhile you need to drain the entire water system to
prevent it from getting stale and musty.
Start by draining the water heater. Go to
the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug,
or petcock is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and
open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in
draining. CAUTION: NEVER drain the water heater when it's hot or
under pressure.
Next, you need to locate the low point
water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they
are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines.
This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water
drain out. There's one more thing left to do, find the drain for the fresh
water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you
can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out.
Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close
all the drains.
Now, do not make the mistake that this is
how you winterize the RV water system. If you do, it can be a very costly
mistake next spring. All we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the
majority of water from the system. If by accident you forget to drain the
water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You
just need to sanitize the water system. (top of page)
For steps on sanitizing the water system,
read the rest of the article on RV Travel by clicking here.
Recalls? - Check
this out!
Need to
replace a broken wheel stud?
We have a number, (6 at last count), of brand new studs for the standard
16" wheel fitted to the 1988 on, Ford Super duty V8 chassis.
These are ideal if you have sheared a stud when changing a wheel.
They are £2.50 + P&P, which should be no more than a £1.
Well worth keeping one in the toolbox as a
spare. When they are gone they are GONE! - Contact
us.
Watch here for further information on owning an RV
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